Chapter 3 Part 3 extra one

#7 A3 the final decorated paper based on tulips. watercolour, acrylic ink, chalk using various torn paper masks.

Chapter 3 Part 3 in reverse order!

this is just an interim report and in reverse order! it will eventually over the next few days consist of 3 posts so when my tutor sees them she can read through from start to finish without having to go backwards. at least that's my wonderful plan!!! so for those of you (if any) are reading this one first Chapter 3 is all about choosing a flower with the intention of developing a 'slip' design. not the kind of slip you put on pots but a small textile motif made to be applied to another textile. i have chosen tulips.
#16 above shows my bunch of tulips towards the end of their life. the outlines have been drawn with a kebab stick and/or a brush and aqua wax and once dry i have applied water colour washes.
#17 detail of #16!
#18 i have used an actual petal as a mask with chalk to produce a random pattern
#19 more aqua wax
#20 detail of #16
Part 3 of the chapter has asked for decorated papers based on the chosen flower. there are many stripes and striations in tulips, especially the older they get and more dried up the petals are. so many of my papers are stripey!
#1 A4 piece of tracing paper coloured with acrylic ink with strips of torn tissue stuck down. it crinkles beautifully when dry.
#2 using aqua wax drawn with the kebab stick, then acrylic ink, fabric paint and chalk applied.
#3 A3 stripes of watery watercolour with fabric paint and varnish applied with a roller to give a squidgy appearance!
#4 and the next one down. i have used my by now dead tulips as masks and sprayed the paper. i have left it very plain as i can see it has potential for applying 'slips' to.

#5 A3 i cut a stencil from one of the aqua wax drawings and randomly stencilled using fabric paints, white gesso and water colour.
#6 A3 not sure about this one. again i used the tulips as random masks and sprayed the background. i then took some dead petals as masks with chalk and finger smudged them. however i think they look more like bananas than petals! it might be useful! and of course i have got to the end of this and realised i have left one off!! well planed that one

Chapter 1 addendum.......

this addendum to my last post is so anyone who wants can actually see and read my study of English 17th century flower embroidery. i realise that it doesn't pay to work large when blogging work! Last time i use A3 for text etc. anyway it might be wise to read the last blog first and then this one. each A3 has been split into 5 working from top left to bottom left, then top right and blootm right. the main text panel comes first with each section. so firstly we have 'inspiration'




'Costume'




'Samplers and flat embroidery'




'Raised work'



i do hope this lot is legible!

Chapter 1 Historical study of flower embroidery

For my study i chose 'complete' embroidered flowers in England in the seventeenth century. In a period when rather a lot happened politically, civil war, beheading, Commonwealth, Restoration and abdication it is surprising such a diverse range of amazing embroidery was produced. I have covered costume and domestic textiles but not furnishings and the later crewelwork. it took a long time to choose my area of study but as i had no knowledge of this period i thought it would be good to learn. The large sheets are A3 in size. i firstly started with inspiration and got carried away! i found the story behind John Tradescant, his cabinet of curiosities, his wife's demise and the start of The Ashmolean Museum quite fascinating but not hugely relevant to the study! anyway bedtime reading!
Costume after a certain date seems to mainly be accessories but some amazing ones.
since undertaking this study i have discovered the large sale of textiles previously owned by Sir Frank Richmond. The sale at Bonhams in March showed exactly how important and valued these textiles are now considered. in the sale there was an identical piece of embroidery to the three ladies in the bottom right corner, showing how designs were copied often more than once. the sale items and how much they went for can be seen at Bonhams in Sale #18761.
one of the stitches often seen in samplers is Rococo stitch. i thought i would work an actual flower to show how 'square' this type of stitch renders flowers etc. sample measures 7.5cm x 6.5cm.
although my Weldon's shows this stitch in the chapter 'Canvas Work' the instances in the 17th century appear to be worked on fine linen and also silk satin!!! Still not sure how!
i also consentrated on Raised work (Stump work). the basket in the top right and the casket (lid shown with mica covering) i actually conserved when i was at the V&A so i remember them quite well!
as part of this study i went to Exeter Cathedral to see Lady Dorothy Dodderidge who is beautifully regailed. unfortunately although she died in 1614 her jacket and petticoat date to an earlier design of flowers within tendrils which did not come into my study. a precursor for anyone else who is doing this study!
i am very lucky working in a museum with a large collection of books on costume/textiles! i was also told about a very useful website on the study of early textiles which could be included in the Module for future reference.
Hours taken: 52

Inspiration for flower head shapes

the above photo of a 'flower garden' by Tom Skinner was my inspiration for Chapter 2 stitched flowers.

Module 4 Chapter 2

While Chapter 1 is still ongoing i have been working on the stitched samples for Chapter 2. i chose two flower shapes freely drawn. A postage stamp size was recommended, hence the stamp to show scale!
#1 3D wire work, i can't tell you how pleased i am with this sample!! i got very carried away although the lesson to be learned is never let an 11 year old boy near your work as what was a 3D piece ended up as 2D till i squealed at him and readjusted it!! the background is satin stitch with stem stitch outline.
#2 rococo stitch one of my favourites. here worked on canvas although most of the pieces i have studied appear to be worked on a counted linen.
#3 detached needlelooping of various kinds.
#4 long and short stitch.
#5 a slip with a couched thread to neaten the outline.
#6 using waste canvas.
#7 a sample based on a stumpwork stitch which uses a silk wrapped bullion thread. in the original the loops lie flatter to the fabric and i think this is because it is a steel wire without any spring unlike the modern silver one.
#8 chain stitch
#9 padded satin stitch. i used felt for the padding.
#10 Kantha stitch.
#11 speckling and running stitch outlined in stem stitch.
above shows the working method of the waste canvas flower.
above the slip cut out but before applying to the ground fabric.
above shows the wire outline couched in place before the needleloop stitches were worked. i followed 'Beginner's guide to Stumpwork' by Kay Dennis and Mary Thomas's Dictionary of Embroidery stitches was invaluable.

Total 36 hrs.

Authentication Module 3

hope this is ok! i am working on the samples for my 3rd assessment piece.